Sunday, October 11, 2009

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Grande Complication on JamesList


Typical Sunday morning for me. I woke up to the sound of my 2 kids trying to work the AppleTV and knew it was time to start my final day of the weekend. I switched on the laptop and pointed my browser to it's first stop of the day, JamesList.com. I usually save the watch listings for last but today, I went right to them and much to my surprise, I found this beauty up for sale.


The AP RO Grande Complication is as luxurious a sport watch as you will ever see. As is the case with all Audemars Piguet Royal Oak timepieces, the Royal Oak Grande Complication watch shows off the unique octagonal bezel with 8 hexagonal screws whose slots are all aligned to form a circle. Crafted in 18K white gold with a sapphire exhibition case back, the APROGC is made up of over 648 individual pieces. It  is a modern watch with a perpetual calendar showing day, date, week, lunar phase, month and even leap year that is said to be accurate for over a century.

So how much does one have to pay to have the honor to call one of these masterpieces their own? This particular one is ready to go at $584,000.USD and is located in Switzerland. I wonder if I can get him to throw in shipping for free? The JamesList-ing is here in case you are interested.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean "Liquidmetal"


Let the record state that I am a big Omega fan. That being said, they really have not put anything out in the past few years, since I purchased my PO, that has got my motor running, so to speak...until now! Omega has gone above and beyond in updating the Seamaster Planet Ocean by utilizing 2 materials that they have never used before on any watch, ceramic and a unique titanium compound that they have named "Liquidmetal" (more on that later)

Thankfully they did not depart from what made the PO a best selling dive watch and one of the most popular timepieces in the replica world. This Limited Edition (1948 pieces) is powered by Omega's Chronomter certified Calibre 2500 Co-Axial automatic movement. The dial is familiar with numerals at 12, 6, and 9 and tapered baton lume markers at all twelve positions. The "Seamaster" text really stands out in red on the, what looks like, ceramic dial. Helium release valve at the 10 spot and the heavily knurled crown. What really sets this model apart is the stunning black ceramic rotating bezel combined with solid "liquidmetal" numerals and markers.


It is still yet to be seen if this new combination will fly with buyers, but from all I can see, it looks to be a real winner. I hope Omega uses more ceramic (a'la Rolex, Hublot, Blancpain, etc...) to come. Time, and sales, will tell if they will translate it throughout the brand.

LIQUIDMETAL
(From Ariel Adams' Blog to Read) Turns out liquid metal is something else, not the ceramic part of the watch. Liquidmetal seems to be a special titanium allow that has the manufacturing process of plastic. Thus it is very malleable. Omega uses Liquid metal at least in parts of the bezel to combine with the ceramic for the amazing seamless look. The makers of liquid metal say that it is a "metallic glass." Something I've certainly never heard of. In addition to titanium, it has zirconium, nickel, copper, and beryllium. Lots of companies uses the stuff when metal needs to be formed in the right way, but simply don't want to endure the very difficult process of using tradition methods to get the beautifully seamless look that you can see here on the bezel of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal.


Perrelet Watches at Lussori Event



Perrelet the centuries old company that first brought us the automatic watch movement, recently partnered with Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA luxury retailer, Lussori to introduce release of the new Perrelet Turbine Watch Collection as well as other luxury watches from the brand. On hand was Virginie Perrelet, a direct descendant to the company's founder.

While Perrelet is a more familiar brand in Europe, this event and others like it are a great way to connect with the watch community and build brand identity here in the States. This was also a great opportunity for the company to educate consumers about the value and quality of the Perrelet brand of timepieces.  

"The people who attended were definitely interested in the brand. I heard positive comments about the design and exquisite craftsmanship each watch had. I feel proud to say we left the event with new Perrelet fans", said Perrelet's North American Managing director, Michael Goldstein.
 
Look for the company's next big step, their own in-house movements, due soon. This step will cement their place in the luxury watch marketplace.



Saturday, September 26, 2009

Gorilla Leather Straps - A true hidden gem in strap making.

You purchased your grail timepiece, congrats. You have worn it for over a year now and although you may still stare longingly at it, several times per day - truth is, it is getting a little bumped around. So you break out your Cape Cod cloth or titanium refinishing pen and go to work. A few minutes later, you have a watch case that looks like it just left the showroom case. You go to put your leather strap back on it and it looks like it just does not belong. The original strap has taken a full year of daily wearing (and removing) and is looking a bit tired. You could go back to the AD (authorized dealer) and drop over $150. + on a new OEM strap. Maybe a brown one, or a gator/croc selection,(for a lot more $$) or you could go a different route...a custom strap, made exclusively for you with hand stitching and an endless selection of hides and thread colors all for a lot less than most other "custom" strap makers. Don't get me wrong, there are a number of aftermarket strap manufacturers out there putting together some real nice looking product. My favorite choice happens to be Bo at Gorilla Leather.

Bo hasn't been making straps for all that long but is a true student of design. He started drawing at the age of 3 and he is the currently a self taught Graphic Designer for a MLB team . Most recently he redesigned the teams logos and uniforms, so you know the guy has talent. He took to strapmaking rather quickly mainly because the options that were out there were far to expensive and he saw an opportunity.

While all handmade straps are truly custom, Bo takes "custom" to a whole different level. Lets say you decided to purchase a Gorilla Strap. While he does, from time to time, have pre-made straps available, the real joy is customizing your own. Once you email Bo at Gorilla Leather he can send you a form that has nine (9) different selections that you have to choose to make your strap. They range from choosing your size (6 different measurement points), 4 different cut options, numerous stitch patterns and thread options, and of course, so many leather options that you may lose your mind trying to decide. Bo's Flickr page has plenty of pics to help guide you through the process.



"There is a base cost for each strap." Says Bo. "From there you can customize your design by choosing your own options. If there is a price next to an option, that additional charge is tacked on to the base charge of the strap. If there is no cost listed, it's a free option. Genius!" An average strap custom made to your liking will cost you less than $100. bucks - an unbelievable bargain. You can also get WWII ammo pouch straps or genuine Ostrich leg for an extra $30. Each strap is branded on the back with Gorilla Leather "G" stamp.

If you have ever had a custom suit or pair of shoes made for you, you know that these things take time. Well the same goes for strap making. Bo takes his time with his craft. "Time required to make each strap is based on my current work load. And if it wasn't obvious, I take my time to turn out an excellent product and do everything I can to make your vision a reality. So yeah, it takes a while. Don't email me every week asking status of your strap. I will hate you.." He says jokingly. "Let me work and be patient." Shipping is USPS flat rate $5. but for a little bit more, you can get it any way you choose.



Gorilla Leather also creates some unique non-watch leather goods. Your pooch can show off his own custom dog collar, or you can travel in style with Bo's luggage tags. If you dream it, I'm sure Bo can make it. If you have any questions, just email Bo@artofbo.com or Twitter.com/@gorilla_straps and he will gladly answer any questions you may have. His website, www.gorillaleather.com will be going live on 10/23-09.

I guess now you can add strap making to the list of things "Bo Knows..."

Friday, September 25, 2009

Tag Heuer Monaco V4


Somebody had better send the medics over to LVMH headquarters...STAT! There is something going on with them over there. There MUST be! Why else would they stray so far from the norm that is the Tag Heuer brand and create this masterpiece? The Tag Heuer Monaco V4.

While the average Tag Heuer is priced around $2000., the V4 packs a much loftier price, $80,000. to be exact. See, now you know why I want the medics over there? What exactly do you get with the extra $78K over the standard Monaco? This is where the fun begins...

First, according to Tag Heuer, the Monaco V4 watch took them 14,200 days of R&D to make. That is somewhere around 38 years for those who are keeping score. (I'm sure that is including all man hours combined) The case is 950 Platinum and is in the familiar Monaco square shape. There is a semi-domed sapphire crystal shows off the engine-like (V4, get it?) movement in an almost three-dimensional look. The hands are a cool blue that stands out on the brushed metal movement, very well. A second hand is non-existent.

Moving to the rear of the watch, you will see a specially designed curved case back that displays two turbine looking banks of cylinders, (again, keeping with the high performance automotive theme) with four wheels in the corners driven by belts. Those four wheels are the mainspring barrels and the belts help provide 52 hrs. of power reserve for the watch. The belts actually need to be replaced, just like a cars belts do. What no oil change? Separating these two banks of "cylinders" is a linear weight that moves up and down as you wear it and serves to wind the movement. No oscillating rotor here!

S0 lets see, we have a belt driven transmission, an $80K price tag, what am I missing from describing this unique vehic, err...timepice? Of course ball bearings!! Tag Heuer uses micro ball bearings in place of rubies between the gears and movement plate. They say the ball bearings cause less friction. All these unique, yet functional elements keep the Tag Heuer well in Chronometer range by being accurate to within 4 seconds per day.



Tag Heuer is making the first 150 pieces of this watch available through auction at the Only Watch 2009 charity watch auction. The other 149 of them are waiting at the Tag Heuer showroom - I would guess next to the Rolls' and the Bugatti's!

Specs courtesy of Tag Heuer:

TRANSMISSION
5 NOTCHED BELTS INCLUDING 2 WITH INTERNAL STEEL REINFORCEMENT WIRE
3 DIFFERENT TRANSMISSION BELTS, OF 0.25 X 0.07 mm, WITH A LOAD TO 130g
2 IDENTICAL BARREL BELTS, OF 0.5 X 0.15 mm, WITH A LOAD TO 1’300g
11 MICRO BALL-BEARINGS OF 2.2 TO 4 mm DIAMETER AND 0.6 TO 1 mm THICK
6 NOTCHED PULLEYS INCLUDING THE ESCAPEMENT PINION REPLACING THE TRADITIONAL PINIONS AND WHEELS
48 JEWELS

ENERGY
2 PAIRS OF BARRELS IN SERIES, SET IN PARALLEL AND INCLINED AT 13°, STORING 450g OF ENERGY EACH: 900g TOTAL STRENGTH

AUTOMATIC WINDING SYSTEM
LINEAR MASS WITH DOUBLE RACK RAIL: 12g TUNGSTEN INGOT

MOVEMENT FEATURES
28’800 VIBRATIONS PER HOUR
STRENGTH COLLECTING SYSTEM SET ON A MICRO BEARING AT 12 O’CLOCK
2 DISCHARGE RATCHETS WITH GEAR CUT AT 13°
ANNULAR BALANCE WITH 3 ARMS MADE OF GLUCYDUR
« TOP » QUALITY SWISS BALANCE-SPRING WITH MICRO BLAZED FINISHING
« RAQUETTERIE » WITH FINE ADJUSTMENT BY ECCENTRIC SCREW
52-HOUR POWER RESERVE
AVERAGE ACCURACY PER 24H: +/- 4 SEC
RANGE max 310°, min 210°
SMALL SECOND AT 4

WATCH FEATURES
PLATINUM 950 CASE
BEVELED EDGE AND CURVED SAPPHIRE GLASS
HAND-SEWN BLUE ALLIGATOR STRAP
FOLDING BUCKLE WITH DOUBLE SAFETY PUSH-BUTTONS IN PLATINUM 950

Sunday, June 14, 2009

One of a Kind Lum-Tec California Dial Chrono Up for Auction


The guys over at Lum-Tec has a pretty cool prototype watch up for auction. Here is a great opportunity to own a one-off example from one of the hottest, new watch manufacturers out there. The watch has a unique blue California (Roman and Arabic hour markers) dial with chrono function and enough of Lum-Tec's MDV (Maximum Darkness Visibility) lume so our friends in the International Space Station can tell the time all the way from up there. Owner Chris Wiegand gives the watches specs on his companies forum:

"This is a handmade prototype watch, hand made dial with hand applied lume, handmade leather strap, sapphire crystal with double side AR, 44mm 316L SS case, Miyota OS20 chronograph movement. Only one like it in the world. This model will not ever be produced so it's a cool piece to have for a watch collector. "

Auction ends soon so visit WatchandClockForum.com now and place your bid. Good luck!

Thursday, June 4, 2009

The Patek Philippe Gondolo for Tiffany & Co.

To celebrate the opening of the Patek Philippe salon inside the Tiffany & Co. flagship store on New York’s 5th Avenue, Patek Philippe have created an exclusive Gondolo. The Patek Philippe Gondolo for Tiffany & Co. revives Patek Philippe’s tradition of featuring the retailer on the dial of the watch which was once popular but was phased out in the early 1990’s. The Tiffany & Co. Gondolo retains the Gondolo’s unique shape and is made of white gold and encrusted with one hundred and sixty seven brilliant cut diamonds. The dial is available in either black or white lacquer with a classic guilloche pattern. Only fifty of each model will be made and will be available exclusively from the Tiffany & Co. flagship store on 5th Avenue.